Saturday 7th September 2013
Ramble 23: Olton,
Bridge No. 84 to Gas Street Basin, Birmingham.
We set off along the towpath with John, Julie, Sue, Jem,
Hugh and Margaret, all in good spirits and aiming to cover the eight or so
miles to Gas Street Basin. We were especially
glad that the weather had improved from yesterday for this, the last leg of the
Grand Union Canal walk, having started from Little Venice, near Paddington,
London in March 2012.
To start with, the canal looked nice in dappled sunlight
with greenery all around. Surprisingly, there were many wild flowers too.
Gradually, as we walked further on into areas
such as Tyseley, Small Heath and Bordesley, the surrounding areas, with their
history of industrialisation and subsequent decline, was one of increasing dereliction and neglect. Mostly,
there was a strange quiet emptiness with few people, boats or wildfowl around. Many
large buildings were empty and bricked up; some were burned out, much graffiti and
weeds growing through them.
We stopped for picnic lunch by the first of the five narrow Camp
Hill locks. Nearby, a party of volunteers were sprucing up the lock gate arms with
some new paint. We sat and watched and chatted. Once refreshed we continued on,
taking the Digbeth Branch canal at Bordlesley Junction.
We went past the stop lock and toll house by
the old Geest banana warehouses at Warwick Bar and over the river Rea aqueduct.
Looking down here we saw Japanese Knotweed flowering and much rubbish.
After seeing the Typhoo Basin going off to our left we went through Curzon Street tunnel that passes under mainline railway lines.
Around here the remains of the Co-op Furniture factory dominate the scene one side of the canal. As a listed building, it was due to be part of the re-development plans, but in 2007 three-quarters of the factory was destroyed by fire and a week later further damage was caused by high winds. Now what is left stands surrounded by fencing and plans for it seem unclear.
At Aston Junction (with Birmingham and Fazeley Canal) we turned westwards towards the centre of Birmingham.
There seemed to be more activity around Aston Science Park and University areas, certainly there was more brightly coloured fencing and newly laid grass, but few people.
The surrounding buildings loomed higher and higher along here, until the canal seemed small and closed in, in comparison. So small at one point that it actually goes under the 1970s decommissioned BT Brindley House telephone exchange tower block. Now there are luxury apartments in this 17 floors high block, above the stilts surrounding the canal, locks and side pounds.
John spotted the spanking new library between other buildings. Opened just a few days before, we gathered that the £190m library is already a big hit with people and could see some exploring the secret garden on the outside of the 7th level!
The toll office built in 1783 remains by Cambrian Wharf and
a little further on at Old Turn we crossed the bridge to the last stretch of
towpath before Gas Street Basin.
Along here it was very busy with people walking, shopping, whiling away time in cafes, restaurants, bandspeople spilling out of the Symphony Hall entrance for group photos, boats taking wedding reception guests along, etc ,etc. It took us a while to make our way through, under Broad Street Bridge and on into Gas Street basin. Again, there is the contrast of new and old here with the landmark Cube building (apartments, offices and rooftop restaurants) dwarfing the centuries old canal and industrial buildings. We took our group photos and made our way to the recently opened Pickled Pig coffee bar for a drink. We were told the building was once a farmhouse (!), then offices and warehouse for a business dealing with marble and more recently used as TV studios before conversion to a restaurant.
Along here it was very busy with people walking, shopping, whiling away time in cafes, restaurants, bandspeople spilling out of the Symphony Hall entrance for group photos, boats taking wedding reception guests along, etc ,etc. It took us a while to make our way through, under Broad Street Bridge and on into Gas Street basin. Again, there is the contrast of new and old here with the landmark Cube building (apartments, offices and rooftop restaurants) dwarfing the centuries old canal and industrial buildings. We took our group photos and made our way to the recently opened Pickled Pig coffee bar for a drink. We were told the building was once a farmhouse (!), then offices and warehouse for a business dealing with marble and more recently used as TV studios before conversion to a restaurant.
We were very pleased to finish this series of Grand Union
Canal walks and they were even more enjoyable by the good company of our many
companions along the way. We have many happy memories. We now look forward to
starting the Oxford Canal walks in early 2014.